Tag: Ocean

  • Cold Reading

    “Yr lines, sunny boy,
    bingy, not calm,
    head busy jabots,”

    read Madame Fraus,
    by the tide that rips
    rocks thru yr palms.

    “Saline swim,
    bit sweet lit life,
    palms stage aligned,

    neck aflame, hair
    shorn horizon
    frizzled smile.

    Silverfish whitecaps
    aquiline wings smack
    & bay across draft brow.

    Paddle out, palms
    cupped, plod, slog,
    moil, & no sloom.”

    No sleep, steep crag
    to pine green palms,
    in line for clay water.

    Around another point,
    the persuasive ocean
    spreads open palms.

    “I’ll see you next week,”
    Madame Fraus said.
    “Leave the door open.”

    Cold Reading

  • El Porto, 1969

    Santa Monica Bay, water like lead

    ladled from a plumber’s melting pot.

    Fog spills oily blue

    foam fills with air, pulls some green under.

    Close in, swells steam and foam, a salty dough of seaweed.

    Waterers wax boards, paddle out north end at 45th Street, first smoky light, shadows of refinery plant, dunes still in shade, covered in olive drab.

    The surfers paddle out, into the surf.
    They work the waves like fishermen,
    air full of flush, gush, white hissing bass horns,
    trembling treble flourish finish.

    Silence

    falls

    like a whale sounding, in a long lull,
         water like coffee with milk and honey
              where the waves churn the sandy bottom.

    A surfer trio returns to the beach, short paddle from small waves now high tide,

    rolled waves rope caulked and cold chisel hammered.

    The surfers lift their boards into a truck, laughing in wet trunks, salted muscle, and tussled hair. The surfers never grow weary of waves, dancing drones under a lemon yellow flower. The waves open blue, break lime green, fall white

    in simple declarative sentences
    of plumbed gist, of easy escape.

    “The strand and the waves exist no more,

    the summer is dead,” Samuel Beckett said.

    Los Angeles, South Santa Monica Bay, beach city surf, Strand cruise Hermosa to El Porto, royal blue bicycle paddling along, waves closed out bass lines, high spring tide, full moon.

    Angel’s eyes perpetually open,
    losing particles of neon green light,
    Mister Jama quick walking Chaplinesque,
    black dressed for snow, Silence caged in his palms.

    Swells slumber under mounds of silver paint,
    disheveled waves chiseled from lead cakes,
    grunion running in surf fanning the beach
    full of lustrous flickers in the moon glow.

    The surfer girls come and go, come and go,
    singing of clothes in forget-me-not lingo,
    walking the beach in blue and gold.

     

    At night they tape their hair to their cheeks
    to hold the curl, the surfer boys
    long to know, long to know.

    The Strand bars net the last generation, inside, drinking beer, surfboards against the wall, bleached parasols, a few surf waves still, but figuratively, as if one finds waves in some oceanic dictionary, listening for the mermaid’s music in books.

    The surfer hears the buzz of his own skeg humming
    across the pages, heavy sets, far out.
    Turning right on the corona’s shoulder
    the surfer grows a little older, the water somewhat colder.

    Flour soup brushes up the dusty beach after the sun falls.
    First light the beach dustless after all night off shore blow,
    the water glassed off, air clear to Malibu north,
    Palos Verdes south.

    A bloom of waves spills and flows over the beach,

    foaming across the bleached sand as the tide rises,

    smooth after the offshore wind blowing all night long,

    the morning water crystal, waves flapping like sheets,

    an airy fuss slapping movement then a quick flip,

    and the rush of fish smell mixed with wax and salt and hair and skin.

    Surfers like a swarm of dragonflies crowd the waves,

    empty at first light, then three California pelicans

    swooping low in a line over the edge of the break,

    blessing surfers believing in waves,

    sitting on their boards just outside the break.

    One takes off on a gray-blue glossy pearl,

    but this surfer should be somewhere else,

    sees an expressionless ocean,
    does not believe in waves,
    upside-down in the surf,
    carving and cutting too hard,
    this surfer rides this wave
    like it’s not the wave he wants,
    so he throws it away,a discarded piece of waste paper.
    He bolts the wave to chalk
    flounces about, his board flotsam.
    This surfer flouts about
    and scorns the sea.

    He does not truly believe in the ocean.

    He does not flower with the waves,

    and a dark brack rises

    and takes him away.

    And the Summer dies.

    The strand and waves exist no more,

    the summer is dead,”

    Samuel Beckett said,

    and the surfer believed him.

    The dead sun did not matter.

    He lost his surfboard, lost the path to the beach, what waves there far beyond his reach. Wave peepers came and pushed him away. He slept in ditches. They even took his bicycle. No technology could save him anyway.

    He sat at an intersection,
    with a cardboard sign that read,
    “Won’t you please help
    a surfer with no wave?”

    A woman stopped, rolled down her window,
    and blew him a kiss that fizzed like a wave,
    and to thank her, he wrote this:

    1. Nothing makes sense
    2. in a waveless universe,
    3. where surfers ride beams of light
    4. on virtual surfboards.

      Many anecdotes followed.

    This one’s about a surfer who stuck with it, tried glass and glue but tossed all that, painted houses in the afternoons, surfed mornings and evenings. This surfer had a feel for boards, loved the way the resin and glass felt watery smooth and clean, bright surf shop stickers buried beneath wax. This surfer believed in waves, was a generous local, too,

    didn’t want to fight, was easily satisfied with a simple sea, lived a slow life, long days, in the bowl of Santa Monica Bay, loved the sun, water, salt beaches, the surf songs The Waves sang.

    The Waves were a beach band, paddled out brittle surf songs on metallico Teles and Jazzmaster bass, drums the speed of breaking waves.

    That’s it, not much more.
    The surfer got drafted,
    went away to war
    came back, went into Insurance,

    said he would never forget

    the last wave he ever surfed,

    after which he felt he’d never grow old,

    then he left the beach for the rain and cold.

    “Things as they are
    Are changed upon the blue guitar,” Wallace Stevens said.

    The surfer placed a board in Los Angeles,
    and long it was, upon a wave,
    it made the disheveled surf
    array in dressed lines.

    The surf surrounded him,
    the board glassed upon the wave
    like a poem,
    like Apollinaire.

    It seemed all cool but absurd,
    breathless, and dead,
    not like a bird or a fish,
    like nothing else in Los Angeles.

    Then he added something more,
    a man upon the board,
    and filled the waves with bicycles,
    perpendicular.

    The waves grew somber, the beach cold,
    the surfboard a splinter in the wave’s skin.
    The surfer fell, it was Fall after all,
    and found himself alone at the end of a pier.

    He was free to swim to shore,
    yet felt a curious fatigue engulf him,
    a surfer’s anxiety,
    for from the beach the waves lacked this intensity.

    He paddled toward shore,
    but a riptide pulled him away and away.
    He treaded water, drifting.
    He lost sight of land.

    The sun fell, and no moon rose.
    The waves met the night.
    They broke in the sky
    and rained down a dark salt.

    The surfer clung to his board,
    flotsam and jetsam floated by,
    old rusted bicycle parts,
    useless in the waves.

    There were no fish, no birds,
    no beach, no palms.
    The surfer drifted in the inky night sea
    below a blue black salt lick night sky.

    He thought he saw a light, the light rose,
    rose or fell, he was not sure,
    if he floated in water or in air.
    His surfboard disappeared.

    Storm surf flushed chaos across the beach.
    I waited for the surfer to return,
    I went to work shaping and glassing a new surfboard.
    Every evening, I walk down to the water

    and watch the waves for his dancing legs,
    his leaning stretch, his tumbling shadow,
    his crouch, his ocean filled gills.

  • Retro Surf Trip

    At their usual spot,
    the point at Refugio,
    the surf was flat,
    so they boogied down
    in the cove,

    the fronds of the palms
    fat and glassy green,
    the rocks at the edge
    smooth with rust moss hair,
    the nose of his board

    thrust up and curling
    and curling in the blue
    air of smiling swells,
    but still the waves
    would not break

    into hysterical laughter:
    “There are no trees
    on the sea,” she said,
    holding a cream white
    pink mophead hydrangea.

    “You look for shade
    under the cool curl,”
    he said, recalling their first
    time – as soon as he stood
    he wiped out,

    his board pushed in
    with the soupy surf,
    he wore no leash,
    paddled out again,
    and she lotioned in the sand.

  • Seaweed Cabbage

    Seaweed at Refugio_4135518072_m

    What was that she said about the skin
    on his hands and forearms,
    seaweed cabbage
    boiling on stove, “That looks bad.”

    Blue dark wet orange oil damp oars drift awake
    dawn dress coffee smoke brown falls upon brown
    slow walk down curved sandy path to the water
    empty nets sea grass tired boats in fresh tide wait.

    Surf sound spooning shingling
    smooth rocks growing on his arms
    that opposite real rocks grow larger
    with each receding tide.

    He thinks about love water
    work moon sleepy fog
    legislated blather laughter
    unrequited smiles.

    He’s not an especially proud man
    unless provoked unnecessarily.
    He has a few books on a shelf
    in the kitchen he touches evenings.

    He thinks severity and frequency
    as all men do capacity purpose
    of hymns folk songs and surf music
    and silence at the end of the path.

    He’s no interests but cars and guitars
    stars in her eyes sand on her skin salt hair
    gloss on her fingernails white
    daisies between her wiggling toes.

    Wave after wave forgotten fishes
    swim past her hands sleeved
    sheathed knives
    embraced recorded let go.

    At the cannery he never did learn
    to stand still that fisherman’s value
    he no longer wanted his friend
    who now fished a desk in Admin.

    The smell of tar and turpentine as he cleaned her feet
    shampoo that smelled like bubble gum
    steel shavings and lead chips the plumber left behind
    carob seeds rotting on fog wet boardwalk.

    Ocean fish air and orange crabs on ice at wood wharf stalls
    after shave and Brylcreem Saturday Night adjectives
    bingo sock hop carnies and a new noun in town
    cool morning breeze on an angel’s moonburned skin.

  • Seachange

    SeachangeBlue neon pales the alley and nothing
    calms the woeful sea if won’t come she
    to the window.

    No, too drouged to hear.
    Her golden green hair billows across
    the Motel Fregata bed, and deep her
    foghorn bellows mute in pillowed sleep.

    So solo out off the beam down to the coaly beach,
    flip flop in shallow cool pools, lured by a small moon coin.

    Up the beach a fire spits, a bottle breaks, and a guitar flashes.
    Over the wooden trestle, a harmonica passes.
    The surf hisses yeses as from the rocks a wiggly piss-take.
    Boon a mist sleeks in, so tack-back to the warm room.

    Seaweed wrapped around orange plastic curlers,
    with foam jelled fingers that collect flotsam and jetsam
    and want some. Curls taped to cheeks and brow.

    She was a beachcomber scavenging in kaleidoscope
    curly cuffed bell bottoms, passing
    across blond sand dunes
    where she learned to stretch and yaw,
    surfing loose blousy waves off breezy reaches,
    coasting through town down to the beach
    on a one speed lazy bicycle, surf mat under arm,
    red-orange towel slapping behind, salted hair curling,
    tangling kite wagtails, waves gushing the beach,
    curling around sandcastles where sand crabs
    and children bubble and fizzle in the foam drizzle,
    no wonder of the surfer’s troubled faith in waves.

    Wet and salty wind full in our wrinkled faces,
    we swim out, hold hands through curling waves,
    dive, burbling breathless under waves,
    fall and turn and spin with the waves,
    hear the waxy epizeuxis of waves.

    By the coyest hairs we argue, liking to talk
    while we surf, something about a tiger shark and riptides,
    an illuminated jellyfish, a juicy green sea anemone,
    and a Brobdingnagian turtle as old as the ocean.

    We lock fingers in curls and pull to the curling top,
    your oily fisheyes turned to my qualmy cockeyes.

    A swell rises to a wave of oyesses,
    we kick and touch and tussle for air,
    and the wave breaks into foam and washes us in,
    prone in repose in the rushing foam.

    Gaviota early 70's

  • 300 Lines from a Walk on the Beach

    Manhattan Pier

    300 This our endus now loops our open
    299 Fall far below, leap over, gambol
    298 Careful of grinning Grendels
    297 Trolling erasures, elite elides, slow spindles
    296 Check under bed and closet before sleep
    295 Fear not these claw dark deep
    294 Divertissements that ballet
    293 Like games of crooked croquet
    292 Changing rules as quickly as played
    291 Which wicked witch of them
    290 Twisted the meme of please
    289 Sordid sorcerers in putrid pits
    288 Filling upside-down mouths with salt
    287 Redacted and redressed in uniform
    286 Theatre ushers marching down aisles
    285 Espousing enhanced punctum bias
    284 Punctuated torts by loco pilot ghost lamp
    283 Misfortune’s cunning smile
    282 Chained he was to a thorny bush
    281 A fire which would not burn
    280 In a land of milk and honey tubas and butter
    279 Stirred with dollar tallboys
    278 Who did a good job revising until all
    277 Edited for good PR
    276 Like Torquemada the Grand Inquisitor
    275 Asking greedy questions no answers satisfy
    274 An open hand flat smacks a desk
    273 With a question
    272 Yes of course it’s why we’re all here
    271 About these numbers
    270 Each line coded
    269 Beginning with 300
    268 Moving backwards down to 1
    267 To make suspect the lines trouble
    266 Can be read up or down vertically
    265 Top to bottom or upside-down
    264 Or begin on any line in touch
    263 Lag a coin upon a line
    262 Hopscotch up and down
    261 Any pause-positional phrase
    260 Allows tracking and trending
    259 Where each line presents
    258 Measured headway phrenological proof
    257 Human nature has not improved
    256 In spite of pills and e-gizmo devices
    255 Echoing down our hours
    254 Speaking of numbers and rhymes
    253 He said he was not a party to wit
    252 He’d seen better times
    251 He danced he sang he twisted
    250 In bed pan pain
    249 He’ll tell you another thing
    248 About this throb and swing
    247 How machines must go on clicking
    246 Up or down
    245 Just so no one falls too fast
    244 Goes with subjects trending
    243 Each line then fixed
    242 In time by dovetail coordinate
    241 Number rhyme logos pathos and ethos
    240 So readers can shuttle and bounce
    239 In and out of these digressions
    238 Where we were when were we
    237 Oh, yes, Line 275, Q&A
    236 About to address
    235 Rebuttals, opposing viewpoints
    234 Handles in the hold of winter argument
    233 Sick of scald cold move quick to summer
    232 Surf seen from silence of dunes
    231 Where two true blue lovers walk
    230 The ice plant garden full
    229 Soft flutters, breeze of roses
    228 Red petals dropping into sea
    227 With flop swish white waves wash
    226 Through the quiet blue dunes
    225 Where plum flowers float in the air
    224 Drizzle down aswoon in color
    223 Brimming on curly burled branches
    222 Wilting immortally
    221 Into plum flower dew
    220 Booming shore pound in the distance
    219 While in the backyard chess games play
    218 And Gnip gnop, gnip gnop, gnip gnop and
    217 Baseball, sitting quietly talking
    216 The father, Cactus, poking
    215 The mother, Twisted Cypress Shadow,
    214 Alone on a hill in sensational California
    213 The sun cooling off behind them
    212 Tendril circles grape the overgrown yard
    211 Where kids run to tatters
    210 Breezes sprinkle Muscat dust
    209 Arms and legs
    208 Light up like firecrackers
    207 Off they go! Off they go! Off they go!
    206 Around and then and than this and that
    205 When they stop no one will know
    204 The kids dance until the moon glow
    203 Soothes their sunburned toes
    202 Sleep beneath scrubby oak trees
    201 Across the sandy tan foothills inland

    Eric and Joe in Ione Nov 2007 124_4118564776_l

    200 Near Meone, Jockson, Cutter Creek
    199 Wettown below the melted mine
    198 The yellow hills of old rust rush country
    197 An orange must buries cast aside graves
    196 Panning for nuggets off the cliffs of Meone
    195 Outside the tavern
    194 Where four women sit talking, patiently waiting
    193 Wreathed with lavender and rosemary sprigs
    192 Vitis californica
    191 Four men come forth from the bar
    190 Little prairie oysters swelling
    189 Following one another out the pub
    187 Need ride can’t drive you reading then ready for what
    186 Like sheep and shamed they all were too
    185 A few pints and darts at the bloody pub
    184 A red hot game they all thinking go now for a goal
    183 Tupping and that one was naked shorn head
    182 Coat he forgot in the cab the little lost lamb
    181 A couple of pinks and he would think himself lucky
    180 She would if her Leo came home growling
    179 Grabbing at her nape punch his lights out
    178 And what when he’s not drinking he’s napping
    177 Comes licking and purring he does
    176 But he knows she means business
    175 Imagine that poundage going at you forty times a day
    174 Him scaring the bejeezus out of the little ones
    173 With his botched teeth horrid breath and moody books
    172 Bloody ignorant tongue drooling from his mouth
    171 How much did he drink as if he could remember
    170 Walking on his knuckles hunkered all thick brow lost eyes
    169 You’ll catch your death of pneumonia
    168 She told him he was actually in the gutter
    167 Oh my god yes in the muddy scummy gutter the snipe
    166 Scooted by his sweatshirt covered in cake she jumped
    165 Moving slowly toward his prey the domesticated cat
    164 His huge orange head lunging his lion ears
    163 Accruing all that sounds like dust
    162 The one with the long tooth stood on his hind legs wobbling
    161 Warbling and pounding his chest falling into a deep fit
    160 Coughing and choking and falling all over her
    159 Hog boring slipping and suckling into the mud
    158 Root for what for a cold carrot or radish she took
    157 Some muck to dip it in jay suds they ought to
    156 Shut that place down for the good it does anyone
    155 Four housemen of the cover-up
    154 The bum with his rhetorical situation
    153 Punctuated equilibrium audience
    152 Faces in the occupying crowd
    151 A hem for a hat, a this for a that
    150 Trade and barter, deceive and trick
    149 For a bite for a ride
    148 Take all of it all the wave the foam
    147 Rye knot kneaded loaf laze and loll
    146 A penny a line for a true one, half price otherwise
    145 Who thought to make copies
    144 Some greedy scholarly degreed griot
    143 A self word-made bard
    142 The verdure wort
    141 In the rise of the root
    140 She’s getting ahead of herself
    139 Nowhere near the start or finish
    138 Some swelling by the wayside
    137 Some rappelling down on the face of it
    136 Some scaling mixing a podium
    135 In each line a toehold though explicating
    134 Some hanging, still, resting on their exegeses
    133 Reading solo rock climbing
    132 Into the pleasant roped pipes
    131 Don’t look so absurdly cold
    130 Pour hot lead, drink salt water
    129 Ale’s gone sour, grass dried frizzy
    128 One man’s ears another’s kazoos
    127 She hates it when people do her like that
    126 Not too much around here mama don’t allow
    125 Eating pig’s knuckles with sauerkraut and malt
    124 The air clear and a rich flourish of waves foaming
    123 Over beakers, the sand berms brushed smooth
    122 Nightlong offshore blow, calm now
    121 The wave surface rigid glass
    120 The whole scene as clean as an experiment
    119 The thunder of the closed out barrels
    118 At the end of the pier past the break over the swells
    117 A rush of fish smell mixing with surge and smoke
    116 Bunsen burner to keep the fisher warm
    115 The clock above the bait shop points up and down
    114 Below the pier the swells emerge from deep water
    113 A hooded wine the swell’s slow purr
    112 An outlier swell appears bullish reaches
    111 A clapping point and a seagull flaps off
    110 Spontaneous symmetry breaking
    109 Flying up to the pier alights atop the clock
    108 One surfer predicts another and at sunrise
    107 More surfers appear and at noon
    106 Flocking to the south side of the pier
    105 There are more surfers than can be accurately counted
    104 Entering the waves random wanton
    103 They disappear under the rushing foam of the inside
    102 Breaking waves and emerge laughing and paddling
    101 To reach the swells outside the break

    100 One waves to another, they look up and wave at the fisher
    99 Who waves back, entangled in the waves
    98 Of nothing missed passing between them
    97 The pier trail fails ahead
    96 Across an ocean of chaos
    95 A test which will not be measured
    94 A failed word wrongful malediction
    93 Only in so far as language goes
    92 The wave performation syntax repeats
    91 With a constant rote result, and that’s something
    90 At the end of the pier there appear two solutions possible
    89 Combining polymorphously into a molecule of nonsense
    88 The ocean empties of meaning permitting accidents
    87 Smoking and drinking joints
    86 Below the jetty on the south side
    85 Sea wrack and brine gulls down
    84 Broken sand dollars
    83 A beachcomber for miles
    82 Pockets full of shells and small rocks
    81 At the end of the pier at the end of the roundabout
    80 A plank, in the shape of an h
    79 The fisher walks out with gaffe
    78 To aid in landing an unusually large catch
    77 A halibut, a barracuda
    76 Bait bucket alive with bubbles
    75 The waves split around the pilings
    74 The fisher walks out onto the h plank
    73 Something jumps in a rush to the water
    72 Disappearing into the slushy grey soup
    71 Waxing waves scouring the beach
    70 Leaving the pier to its sleepy creepy decay
    69 While the ocean supreme creams
    68 Barnacle covered pilings
    67 All that muscled beach
    66 At the end of the railway crossing
    65 Old men wizened as raisins stuck on the strand
    64 The wiriest of them fingerpicks a guitar
    63 The only other sound the wheeze
    62 The tavern door spins
    61 As to the tap they go
    60 The women rocking to and fro
    59 As if on a boat putting out to sea
    58 And then went down to the pub in shifts
    57 Factories now running night and day
    56 Knitting and crocheting
    55 An assortment of needles and pins
    54 It’s an old yarn an old man’s tale
    53 The homonym got the best of him
    52 His reflection in the salt water
    51 As he fell to pay his visit
    50 The year the waves broke over the pier
    49 Surely an end was near
    48 400 blows and the sea divested
    47 The year of the great flood
    46 The land sinking easily away from the sailor
    45 40 worried days and 40 sleepless nights
    44 Wood filled would the old tug hold
    43 The oxpecker kept watch while the rhinoceros slept
    42 The old books would serve as ballast
    41 On the deck he built an altar
    40 Which worried his wife
    39 Later in life
    38 Fish appear in her sea
    37 Little wheels of fog reeling out of the water
    36 A bead of sweat on his brow
    35 Somewhere during the rosary
    34 The rummy one
    33 Sticks out his tongue
    32 Ad libitum
    31 Ad lib scat
    30 Noise
    29 Into silence
    28 All this sand, ashes
    27 Out of the moonlit water
    26 Comes a procession up the beach
    25 Rings and in vestments weary
    24 Music, erratic mutable jazz
    23 Haloes his balding plate
    22 A host the size of a deluxe
    21 Where the surfers eat and drink
    20 Fish burritos and beer at Serena’s Seafood
    19 It’s too late now to stop
    18 They keep after these questions
    17 He knows the answer but waits
    16 Waves closing in closing out
    15 Leaks reveal nothing
    14 Later he’ll call the plumber
    13 Taps pipes lightly with ball-ping hammer
    12 The night sinks stink
    11 Reveille revelry diesel bus starts up
    10 Still dark draft out of the water
    9 Bags the grounds for the morning
    8 Barista in a long green beard
    7 Two cappuccinos with foamy angel wings
    6 Dodge into a coffee house dive
    5 A couple of horned larks warbling across Eden
    4 Blinding flashes in camera obscura
    3 Paparazzi at the Gates of Paradise
    2 One was never enough
    1 In the beginning was the wand and wave

  • At the Beach with Peepa and Moopa

    At the Beach with Peepa and Moopa

    Meet Peepa ‘ and Moopa ‘`

    They like to play on the beach

    The waves are pipes made from sea foam ~~~ ~~~ ~~~

    The lifeguard looks like

    ?{   Alfred Hitchcock with a pipe   ~{

    Peepa jumps off the end of El Porto pipe pier ‘~~~

    —|—|—|—|—‘`~~~ Moopa jumps kilter and akimbo

    |’——–~~~ Peepa runs and dives |——–‘~~~

    \~~~~~~’~~~’`~~~ They swim back to shore

    In the evening when the sun goes down ~~~,~~~

    they sleep on the beach and dream of waves

    ‘` ‘    \~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

    ~’~ sleepy wave eyes ~’`~

    Peepa walks alone down to the water  ‘ \ ~~~

    Moopa awakes and cries ‘` Peepa, where are you?

    Peepa comes running back to Moopa  ‘`   ‘    \~~~

  • Lenten Surf Season

    Work morning and Luke up early helping his dad load plumbing tools,
    wrenches and chisels, elbows and nipples, the ladle and the lead pot
    full of soft lead that looks like frozen surf.
    Luke now taller than his dad.

    “Give Dan a call,” Luke said. “He’s drivin’ now.
    We’re headin’ inland to work,”
    and he ran his rough hand meanly over Jack’s salt matted hair.
    “I’m afraid my surfin’ days are near over, kid,” Luke said.

    Dan lived with his grandma back in the alley
    behind Roman’s, off Devil’s Path.
    He was working on an old Chevy beater.
    He was a cross between a surfer and a hodad.

    “You turnin’ into a hodad,” Jack said,
    but it was a question, and Dan laughed.
    “All you think about is surfing, kid,” Dan said.
    “I have to give Grandma a ride to mass.

    Give me a quarter for some gas, go to mass with us,
    then we’ll drive down and check out some waves.
    You hear Gary got shot? Not coming home, though.
    Sent him up to Japan for some R and R.”

    “I love the mass,” Danny’s grandma said.
    She sat in the middle of the bench seat,
    smelling like toilet water and wax.
    “I love the quiet, the peace.

    I love the back of the church dark,
    the hard polished oaken pews,
    the altar lit like a halo, the smell
    of the candles, the incense,

    the smell of Father Dayly’s hands
    when he puts the host between my lips
    and sets it down softly onto my tongue.”
    “I know you do, Grandma.”

    “No, you don’t. You boys can’t know
    nothin’ about it, how I love the sudden bells.
    I love the mass so much,” Danny’s grandma said,
    “I’m giving it up for Lent.”

    They turned to look at the old woman,
    Jack rolled his window down,
    and Danny’s grandma saw the salt water in Jack’s eyes.
    “But,” she said, spitting it out, and paused.

    “Yes, Grandma?” Danny said.
    “You go to mass without me during Lent.
    You give up surfing for Lent.”
    Jack could hear the waves laughing at him.

    Rising from the beach and curling over the dunes,
    a breeze hisses like a glass blower’s torch.
    The spring swell peals across the bay,
    the waves a glass cavalry menagerie.

    Surfing